How to keep SPS corals by Mark Rosenblatt - Helpful Information and Tips to Keep Beautiful SPS Corals.
Many of us share a desire to grow beautiful, colorful corals. Acquiring and growing beautifully colored SPS corals (SPS stand for Small Polyp Stony Corals) involves a commitment in time, energy and expenditures.
SPS certainly represent one of the ultimate challenges in saltwater aquaria. Living conditions within a reef tank need to be near perfect to maximize the potential for vivid colorful coral colonies to thrive and prosper. And these SPS colonies are generally very unforgiving organisms. The reef tank environment requires the correct nutrition, lighting, flow, water chemistry and other parameters to get the best SPS colors and growth.
Author:
Mark, also known by his online reefing pseudonym, Watchguy123, has been a hobbyist for about 20 years. His reefing experience started when his teenage daughter promised that if she got a saltwater tank for her birthday, she would maintain it on her own. A short time later, one might guess how that went, and Mark began his journey as the sole caretaker of that tank and a budding hobbyist.
Ultimately, Mark changed tanks to a much larger system, which allows him to have about a 100 coral colonies flourishing to one extent or another.
He is fortunate to live in Southern California, which has some of the best local fish stores, vendors and wholesalers anywhere in the country. Additionally, he has made pilgrimages to some of the very well known vendors across the country and beyond. Reefing and coral photography are two of his favorite hobbies. Along the way, he has made some great reefing buddies who have educated and motivated him regarding SPS. Like most reefing hobbyists, he has confronted frustration, calamity and learned a great deal about humility. Online, you may spot an occasional coral that he has named starting with ”Z’s”, such as Z’s Paradise, Z’s Superman, Z’s Prize, etc. Watchguy's SPS Addiction (photo intense) - Visit Mark's Reef2Reef Thread - Click here.
Why are SPS hard to keep?
For most, establishing a reef tank of colorful SPS corals is a long path of learning, making mistakes, learning from those mistakes, and constantly expanding one’s knowledge base and experience. Many of us start our education path in reefing with local fish stores and then move on to online forums and/or blogs in order to read articles, observe and share others experiences and generally find lots of information. Most of the information shared is anecdotal. Since anecdotal information is based on one’s experience and not scientific study, it can be lead to confusion and contradiction. Although anecdotal experience can lead to the wrong conclusion, it is a great starting point, it simply needs to be taken with a grain of salt, pun intended.
How to choose colorful SPS?
Unequivocally, the best suggestion to growing spectacularly colorful SPS is selecting frags from the most colorful tank grown colonies. Surprisingly the best frags are not necessarily the most colorful frags unless they come from a tank raised colony that you have seen in person or photo. You should always choose a frag from a beautifully colored mother colony that has lived in a reef tank for a long time. Ultimately that choice results in the best success. Without seeing the mother colony whether by picture or in person, it is impossible to tell what promise a frag holds regardless of how pretty or multicolored that particular frag may be.
Photography by Mark Rosenblatt / Z's Yellow Eyed Jawdropper.
Maricultured Vs. Aquacultured.
Corals chosen for the hobby come from the ocean in array of beautiful colors. These recently arrived colonies then undergo an adaptation to tank life with the changes from real ocean water and sunlight to artificial saltwater and light fixtures. This adaptation happens along the entire distribution change, from collection, to overseas wholesaler, to local wholesaler, to vendor and fish store and finally in someone’s tank. Some coral will not survive in tank conditions and some coral may undergo adverse color changes over time in a tank environment. However, out of the many SPS corals imported, there will be some gems that will adapt well and keep their vivid colors and vitality, and prove that they are up to captive tank life.
Ultimately, colonies that are bright, vivid, beautiful and have been in a reef tank for a good while will always give the best chance of having one of their frags successfully thrive and wonderfully color in your tank. A plain, blah looking frag from a stunning tank-raised colony is truly preferable to a colorful frag without history. Colorful frags from freshly imported colonies can easily turn out to grow into duds, but frags from beautiful, brightly colored tank grown colonies will almost always turn out well. Colonies that are recently imported might be bright with exotic colors but there is a high probability that the colors will change and falter once accustomed to aquarium life and artificial lighting.
Historically, named corals like “limited editions” represent coral colonies that have proven themselves to be successful and colorful. At one time, buying a named coral would imply lineage to that proven colorful healthy coral. However, more recently names have been abused or misused so now reliance on those terms is more confusing. In order to consistently have beautifully colored SPS corals, choose frags carefully and with discrimination from tank-grown brightly colored mother colonies.
How to keep sps corals - Parameters and Testing.
The most important characteristics for a successful reef tank and ultimately colorful coral are both vigilance and diligence. You must test your tank frequently and observe your corals regularly for signs of good health. Most everyone enjoys looking at his or her beautiful colored SPS, so constant observation is easy to achieve. Testing your tank parameters is not difficult but does require commitment.
Typical signs of good health are well-colored, fleshy branches and polyp extension. Corals can be healthy without polyp extension but that’s typically the case only if there are fish that bother or nip SPS or it is just one of those species that just does not extend polyps greatly. There are reefers that feel confident that they can “read” the health of their coral by observation but no one can “read” water parameters without testing. Best practice is to both read your coral, which is simply keen observation, and test your parameters once or twice a week. SPS do not have a great deal of “reserve” so that when they are stressed or unhappy, they rapidly succumb. Changes in parameters cannot be seen, they require testing.
Photography By Mark Rosenblatt / Z's 1.
The most important reef tank parameters.
The most critical parameters seem to be alkalinity and nitrates, followed closely by phosphates, calcium and magnesium. A reefer who can keep alkalinity stable can likely keep most everything else stable. The exact number for alkalinity is not critical but keeping the number in a tight range is. Coral thrive with a dKh anywhere in the broad range of 7-12 but only if kept within a relatively narrow strata within that range. Most current reefers typically run their reef tanks somewhere near 8 dKh where in years past much higher levels were the goal. Once a target alkalinity is achieved, it is imperative to stay very close to that target because SPS respond so negatively to fluctuations in alkalinity.
When it comes to your tank, almost every decision is based on personal preference. From its size to its inhabitants, you’re the master of this underwater world. When it comes to tank water test kits, some hobbyists feel their brand is the absolute best.
If you spend any time on aquarium care discussion forums, it’s clear some test kits are more popular than others ... Continue Reading.
So why SPS turn brown?
Brown coral are often an indicator of an abrupt change in parameters or less than ideal conditions. I maintain a range of alkalinity in my tank between 7.3 and 7.8 dKh.
The two best choices for alkalinity stability are either a doser or calcium reactor. Both will also allow for calcium supplementation as well as magnesium and other minerals. Calcium and alkalinity need to be in balance and a calcium reactor will allow you to target one or the other but will keep those two in balance. Since measuring alkalinity seems easier than calcium levels, most reefers will target alkalinity. Dosers allow for much more flexibility because typically two, three or more separate containers are dosed individually allowing for lots of customized regimens. There are a variety of different manufactures of major and minor trace elements and they each have their approaches.
I have a calcium reactor for my display, a reliable dual chamber Procal Calcium Reactor by Marine Technical that I have had for many years. I use Reborn coarse aragonite and ReMag in the reactor. I use a Bubble Magus doser for my small frag tank with Aquaforest Components.
I test alkalinity with a Hanna Checker and nitrates with a Salifert test kit. I test both at least once and usually twice a week. Phosphates are tested monthly with a Hanna ULR Phosphorous checker. I test Magnesium levels infrequently. I use Triton Lab water testing about twice a year. What’s more ...
Photography By Mark Rosenblatt / ReefRaft USA Pink Floyd.
Nitrates and Phosphates.
Nitrates and phosphates are required for organisms to grow and thrive. Too little or too much of either can present problems.
What nitrate level is acceptable.
Current trends advocate nitrate levels around 1-10 ppm and phosphates between .02 and .1 ppm.
High phosphates reduce coral calcification and generally feed unwanted algae. High nitrates also have been reported to feed algae and dinoflagellates. Most people find with very high nutrients that SPS coral will turn brown. There is the rare reefer who has very high nutrients and a stable and pretty tank.
Nitrates have an interesting dynamic with lighting, alkalinity and phosphate.
Why do SPS bleach?
If the nitrate levels are very, very low and the lighting very intense, the potential exists to burn or bleach the SPS. If nitrate levels are very low, then alkalinity levels need to be in a lower range, closer to seawater, otherwise the potential is for burnt SPS tips.
There is also a relationship between the absolute levels of nitrates to phosphates that is required to maintain a healthy biological balance. A nitrate to phosphate ratio should likely be anywhere from 14:1 to 500:1, although that ratio is probably very forgiving. It seems if that nitrates or phosphates drop too low or if the nitrate: phosphate ratio falls out of range, that stability is compromised and that encourages harmful cyanobacteria blooms as well as other harmful or destructive plagues. Beautiful colored SPS require keeping nitrates and phosphates at relatively low levels yet present in measurable quantities and in an appropriate ratio to each other.
How much phosphate is too much?
I target my nitrates between 2-10 ppm although they are generally right at 5ppm. My phosphates range from .03 to 0.1 ppm. I need to supplement my nitrates otherwise they drop too low. I add powdered KNO3 daily to my display at the same time I feed the fish in the morning. My phosphates remain in the described range without the use of GFO or lanthanum chloride.
Photography By Mark Rosenblatt / Z's Paradise.
How to feed SPS corals - Foods, Additives and other Goodies.
Corals require nutrients. It seems the best source of coral food is happy fish doing what fish do after they eat: poop. So the best coral food is simply any good fish food that is enjoyed by your fish. There are many manufactured food choices as well as custom home blends that provide appropriate nutrition for your fish and ultimately your SPS coral.
It is important to keep in mind that the primary source of nitrates and phosphates in a reef tank is fish food. Poorly filtered water can additionally be a contributor of nitrates and phosphates but should not be if using a quality filtration system that is appropriately maintained. And of course, old rock can be a source of phosphates as well.
Think of fish food as a block of nitrates and of phosphates. Whenever you provide fish food to the tank, you are adding nitrates and phosphates to your tank. Your fish only absorb a small amount of the nitrates and phosphates in their food and most is returned to the water as fish waste. And certainly unconsumed food is also part of that added nitrate and phosphate. If you overfeed your fish, fish foods have high enough levels of phosphates to adversely lower the nitrate to phosphate ratio. Too much fish food equals too many nutrients. Ultimately the amount of food given is dependent on the size and number of fish as well as the nutrient export. But that’s just part of the story…
Selecting the right fish food.
I feed my fish Julian Springs Sea Veggies, Ocean Nutrition Formula One and Two Pellets, New Life Spectrum Marine Formula Pellets, and LRS Fish Frenzy. I do not add all of them daily, I rotate among them. I feed my fish twice daily.
Best additive for coral growth?
Additives are an exciting topic. Everyone wants additives to work. It would be wonderful to pour an additive in that would optimize coral color and grow SPS corals fast. There are many beautiful tanks that use additives from one manufacturer or another. It is perhaps possible that these additives are the reason for the beautiful success. Or perhaps they are inconsequential. It is difficult to assess objectively if an additive is significant in improving coral color or growth. Most reefers will at some point try some additives in their tank in the hopes of significant color and growth improvement.
There are also comprehensive systems like Zeovit, Triton, Red Sea, Aquaforest and others. Each of these systems is popular. The basis of many may have been what is called “balling method” but these proprietary systems have become very specific in managing major and minor trace elements, alkalinity and nutrient control. Some find these systems complicated and others describe them as streamlined and easy.
Photography By Mark Rosenblatt / Z's Pink Cotton Candy.
How to control nutrients - Best method for removing nitrates and phosphates?
Your coral require nutrients, nitrates and phosphates. The excess nitrates and phosphates ultimately need to be exported or removed or consumed. Bacteria and algae are large consumers of nitrates and phosphates.
Encouraging algae growth can be done in either a refugium, algae turf scrubber or an algae reactor and they are each powerful methods of nutrient export.
Bacteria live on all the surfaces of the tank as well as in the water column. Rockwork in the tank provides a very large surface area for bacteria and some people therefore adds lots of rock to their tank. Sand beds, particularly deep sand beds can be an area of high density nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria. Bacteria in the water column and on surfaces can be fed a carbon source to promote increasing bacteria numbers. The carbon source can be added directly to the water such as vodka, vinegar or sugar. The carbon source can also be in a reactor via pellets. There are bacterial products to add biodiversity to the tank that can be added. And there are proprietary products that are designed to reduce nitrates and phosphate specifically. Additionally, there are ceramic medias that provide huge surface areas in their pore structure to allow for large populations of bacteria that significantly help reduce nitrates.
Protein skimmers remove some uneaten food, and some amount of nitrates and phosphates as well as bacteria in the skim mate. Skimmers also add oxygenation to the water, and also remove some organics.
Excess phosphates can be removed through binding agents, such as GFO or lanthanum chloride. If nitrates are aggressively removed by any of the methods previously mentioned, then nitrate supplementation can help drive phosphates lower as well.
If nutrients are too high, coral calcification, growth, and color are all adversely effected and unwanted algae blooms are encouraged. If nutrients are too low, corals are likely to be overly pale and starving. If nutrients are out of balance, the tank is vulnerable to a cyanobacteria bloom or other plagues.
I manage nutrients with a Bubble King Mini 200 Protein Skimmer, several liters of Siporax, a refugium lit by a Kessil H350 deep purple with fast growing Chaeto, a seven by sixteen inch filter sock changed out twice weekly, and ten to fifteen percent water changes weekly. And we don’t stop there.
How much flow does SPS really need?
Adequate flow is an absolute necessity for coral health and ultimately color. There are no objective criteria that really well describe the necessary flow required. Adequate water movement around SPS coral significantly impacts their nutrient absorption and excretion. In terms of how much flow is enough, perhaps the best metaphor is that everyone loves a nice breeze but no one enjoys overly forceful winds. Basically gentle polyp movement indicates minimally required flow. Exactly how much flow and polyp movement around SPS is not really known. More flow and more polyp movement are usually considered better but too much direct flow will strip tissue off the coral. There are a great deal of wonderful power heads with all kinds of innovative designs available as well as wave machines. Ideally random flow with gyre movement of the water is ideal because it will help your SPS with both absorption and excretion of nutrients as well as keep detritus from settling. Curiously, unilateral flow as opposed to random flow often results in SPS colonies that grow similarly to a wind swept tree instead of in a more uniform, concentric shape.
I previously used two Tunze 6105 power heads for added flow within the display. Currently, I use a single Maxspect Gyre XF-150 in my display and a Maxspect Gyre XF-230 in my frag tank.
Photography By Mark Rosenblatt / Z's Favorite.
So what is the best light for growing SPS corals?
SPS require lots of light. Fortunately, there are many choices to select from. Metal halides, t5s and LEDS, all can grow corals with beautiful colors.
Metal halides.
Metal halides have been the gold standard. Often described as the best light for growing and coloring SPS. Metal halides also give a “shimmer” effect to the water that is extremely pretty to view that is not matched by the other lighting options. But metal halide bulbs require replacement, roughly annually and they give off lots of heat which usually requires a chiller to keep the tank from getting to warm.
T5 Lighting.
SPS love t5’s, I am not sure why but they just do. Many choose to use t5 fixtures solely. T5 fixtures consistently produce good results and you can grow SPS with t5. But t5’s also require bulb replacement at least as frequently as metal halides, and quite frankly sooner than annually.
LED Lighting.
LEDS have made an incredible impact on the hobby and are presumably the most popular choice for new reefers. A variety of brands make quality LED fixtures that successfully grow and color SPS. There remains some skepticism about LEDS abilities to color and grow SPS but that seems to be rapidly diminishing based on the success of many LEDS. An advantage to LEDS is that different lighting spectrums can be dialed in. And when LEDS are adjusted to bluer spectrums than metal halides or t5’s can achieve, there may an incredible fluorescence visualized. It is described as “pop” or something akin to a black light effect. Not all SPS will fluoresce dramatically but some corals will display vivid colors not seen under typical metal halide or t5 bulb light spectrums. Of course to get the pop, LEDs create somewhat of a Windex effect to the water, a very blue look. The newer LED units have less and less of Windex effect but still provides dramatic pop or fluorescence.
Given the various advantages and disadvantages of each light system, there are many reefers who choose some combination of metal halides, t5s or LEDS. There will likely be arguments for some time to come about the best light system. Given the flexibility of dialing in light spectrums, the dramatic fluorescence visualized, and the absence of bulb replacement needs, it seems LEDS will simply continue to gain market share over their already market dominance.
Photography By Mark Rosenblatt / Blueberry Wine.
SPS - perfect lighting schedule.
I have a Giesemann fixture over my tank with three metal halides, Radium 250 watt 20 k bulbs, and four ATI T5 blue plus 80 watt bulbs. The metal halide Radiums are on from 14:30 to 19:30, five hours. The T5’s are on from 12:00 to 20:00, eight hours. Additionally, I have added Reefbrite blue XHO’s for dawn/dusk and those are on from 11:30 to 14:30 and then 19:30 to 21:00, six hours. The tank is lit for about 11 hours a day total between metal halides, T5’s and the Reefbrite LEDS. On my separate 20 gallon (12 gallons of water) frag tank, I run a Radion XR30w Gen 4 Pro LED with the SPS AB+ template for seven hours.
Water - Do you really need an RO/DI unit?
The quality of the artificial saltwater ultimately determines the success of a tank and thereby the colors that can be achieved in your SPS. It is very difficult to achieve long-term success with SPS without making your own water via a quality RO/DI water system. Not only do nitrates and phosphates need to be removed from city or well water but also chlorine and chloramines. Additionally, further contaminants and organic compounds will be removed.
For those who don’t utilize daily or weekly water changes or any water changes, it is still imperative that the replacement water for evaporation is RO/DI water of the best quality for the best possible coral health and color.
Best salt for a reef tank.
There are many salt manufacturers. Each seemingly has set a goal or criteria for their parameters and those are typically listed on the box. There always seems to be ongoing debates about which is the best salt. I suggest that you review the parameters the various salt manufacturers list and determine what you would like to target. For many people, alkalinity is the most important parameter. I am not sure that it should be though. None of the manufacturers produce a salt with less than around 7.5 dKh. Some produce a product with alkalinity closer to 11 dKh. There are relatively easy ways to reduce newly made saltwater alkalinity, if desired. Additionally if 10-15% weekly water changes are made, likely differences in that freshly made salt water’s alkalinity will have very little impact on the display’s alkalinity. Some people use the most inexpensive salt and others choose the most expensive salt. Choose a salt that is highly consistent with its quality control and mixes to your liking and demands to maximize your corals colors. I have tried many different salts and truly all are very good. Currently, I use Fritz PRO RPM salt.
So what RO/DI unit should I get?
I use a Spectrapure MaxCap 1:1 Ultra-High Efficiency 100-GPD RO/DI system with an added sixth stage for additional chloramine removal.
Summary.
Beautiful vivid SPS corals in a reef tank are a result of many factors. Understanding seawater, water chemistry, being committed to observing livestock, managing water parameters in a very narrow stable range, regimented water testing, providing adequate flow and lighting, managing both input and export of nutrients, all are the building blocks. Consistently beautiful, bright, colorful SPS colonies come from frags chosen from vividly colorful mother colonies that have lived in a reef tank for some time and demonstrated color stability and viability.
Featured Image: Z's Blue Floyd / Article and Photography by Mark Rosenblatt for ReefHacks
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